The boat’s mast is not excessively heavy, but it is ungainly to handle, and there is a point during the raising and lowering where I have to jump up or off the cabin top from or into the cockpit. It took us about an hour to sort things out and set up the boat. The second time I took the boat out, my wife was my crew. This time, I had a new system. I connected my unused jib halyard to another length of line. That line I led through a block, secured to the base of the bow pulpit’s center support via a nylon strap. The line was then led aft, to the port jibsheet winch. 

During the raising process, my wife tended the winch and took up slack in the line as I raised the mast manually. This method worked well when the mast got up to a more vertical angle, but there still wasn’t enough ability in the halyard/winch setup to raise the mast from horizontal to past the “cockpit-to-cabintop” step-up point. I still needed to make that leap while supporting and controlling the mast. I used that simple assist method for the next few trips, as it worked well in holding the mast vertical while I dealt with the forestay pin. I did know that it wouldn’t work for single-handing, though. After a period of research and looking around at other devices, I built my mast raiser prototype. The principle is similar to several commercially available systems on the market today. The things I like best about my device are: 1.) It is virtually fully self-contained. The unit attaches and removes with a minimum of disruption to the existing rigging on the boat. 2.) It is easy and relatively inexpensive to build. The parts cost less than $80 and it took about two hours to complete. 3.) The unit doesn’t rely on any other additional equipment such as babystays or using the main boom as a gin pole. I can tend the mast to keep it from rolling to one side until it is at an angle where the shrouds provide lateral support. 4.) Operation of the raiser is performed from the boat’s deck, right at the mast base. In my opinion, this is a better position that being on the ground at the trailer’s bow winch (which is where some systems are operated from). Being on the deck enables me to attach the unit, handle the rigging, and raise the mast without climbing on or off the boat several times. I can also easily deal with a twisted shroud or fouled backstay from that position. 

Design and Construction

I used a kiln-dried 2x4 as the main member of the system for a few reasons. First, it is has a good strength to weight ratio. Second, it is easy to work with using common hand tools. Third, it is easy to replace if damaged or modification is required. My original plans entailed eventually using a piece of aluminum box tube as the main member, but the wood has worked so well, I’ll leave it for now. A concave cutout in the shape of the mast leading edge was made in the lower end of the post for locating the post to the mast. A piece of 1/8 in. thick rubber matting was glued in the curve of the post end to provide a more secure grip and prevent scratching of the mast. The post is 64 in. long, overall. To determine the post’s length, I measured from the leading edge of the mast (in its raised position) to a point directly above the bow cleat. This is important, as it allows enough room for the headstay/furler to be pinned in at the stem fitting. For securing the raiser to the mast, I came up with a nylon ratchet strap. The particular strap I used is a Keeper brand, Model 85513. This should be easy to find at any large hardware or automotive supply store. Initially, I thought a pin on the forward aspect of the mast would be needed to locate the base, but in practice, the tension of the strap keeps the unit snug on the mast. Fastening the strap ends to the wood was done with a lag bolt, screw eye, wood screw, and fender washers. The block at the top is a Harken #146 Big Bullet Block (West Marine model 196337, $14.99). It was used because it was a spare item in my parts bin. It has a working load rating of 300 lbs. I haven’t analyzed the loading on the block, but I figure it’s within the block’s rating. If desired, one could use a slightly larger block with a 500-lb. working load rating for more redundancy. Eyebolts are used to attach the block and jib halyard shackle to the raiser’s top end. The eyebolts were obtained from a local hardware store. One is a forged type and the other is a bent-loop type. I will probably change the bent-loop type to a forged eye, as the forged ones have a higher load rating and are less likely to deform under load. The winch is a 600-lb. capacity Fulton, Model T-600. It cost $19.95 at K-Mart. The reduction ratio is 3.1:1, which is very adequate for this application. It can also be found at West Marine (model number 382087, $20.99). The winch’s locking pawl is adequate for now, but I will make an auxiliary locking device to secure the drum when I leave the winch to pin in the headstay. Just extra insurance. A locking aluminum climbing carabiner (SMC locking-D) is used to secure the winch line to the bow cleat. I used the carabiner, as it was immediately available from my camping supplies. It also has a high load rating and is easy to operate.

To accompany the mast raiser, I installed a 3-in. wide bow roller (trailer roller) in the fork of the mast crutch. My boat came with the optional stainless steel crutch that mounts in the rudder gudgeons. The roller enables me to easily roll the mast aft and then bolt the lower mast end in the tabernacle. Some sort of an aft mast crutch is needed for the operation. Crutches are available commercially, or one can be built using easily obtained materials. The crutch needs to be tall enough so that the trailing edge of the mast doesn’t hit the forward edge of the sliding cabin hatch. Otherwise, the end of the mast is too far above the tabernacle bolt. The hatch needs to be in the closed position, too. 

I performed the initial tests with the raiser using the original halyard. The halyard appeared to be of polyester construction with an outer braid, and was probably at least seven years old. The tests went well, but recently I replaced the halyard with a length of ¼ in. Sta-Set X line. The Sta-Set X has about 1/3rd less stretch than regular Sta-Set polyester braid line, and I figured that would be an asset in this system where the halyard bears most of the load. The ¼ in. has a breaking strength of 2700 lbs., which should give it about a 400-lb. working load. The winch line is ¼ in. outer-braided nylon utility line. This may also be replaced soon with ¼ in. Sta-Set X line.

To use the raiser, the mast is rolled aft and the lower end bolted into the tabernacle. The backstay is flaked out on the cockpit floor. I also pre-tape the lower toggles on the shroud turnbuckles so they stand straight up. It is easy to bend a turnbuckle T if the toggle gets twisted. The raiser is then strapped on the leading edge of the mast, a few inches above the base. The winch side goes toward the bow. The furler/headstay is loosely secured to the mast with one bungee cord to keep it close at hand. Attach the jib halyard shackle to the rear eye, take up slack, and cleat it. Spool out some line from the winch and attach the carabiner to the bow cleat. While winching the mast up, carefully watch the shrouds and backstay to make sure they don’t foul. Until the mast is at about a 45-degree or greater angle, it needs to be tended to prevent it from falling off to one side. The shrouds will keep the mast up at the higher angles. I find that I don’t need to readjust the shroud turnbuckles to raise or lower the mast, once the rig has been initially tuned. The backstay tensioner I use enables me to have enough slack to easily pin in (and unpin) the headstay. Lowering the mast is pretty much the opposite of raising. Remember to tend the mast as it gets toward the horizontal angle. The tabernacle is not strong enough to take a large side load. I practiced with the raiser a few times at home before using it at the ramp. That way, any alterations can be easily performed and the practice makes you look good at the ramp. Now, single-handing my Capri 18 is possible, as I can fully rig and unrig the boat by myself.

Erik VanRenselaar
Capri 18 #471, “Chloe”